The hidden art
Most of the 19th. and 20th. century painters found refuge in Var from the Côte d’Azur at some time of the year or at some time in their careers. Just a short journey from the coast, the mountains of Var provided further inspiration for their work.
Many worked in Var, others lived in the area and some left an indelible history of their lives. Their culture and influence is still to be found today. The region has many small galleries exhibiting high quality contemporary work and many of the Var villages host classical or jazz music festivals throughout the year.
The following are just a few highlights; visitors to The Art Lover’s House will, it is hoped, add their own discoveries, stories and even anecdotes to The Art Lover’s Book, at Rue Pierre Porre.
Seillans
Seillans was, for a time, the home of Max Ernst. The town has recently refurbished a building which opened in 2005 as an extended Ernst museum. Meanwhile, Ernst’s nephew is refurbishing his uncle’s house, bringing to life the legacy left by this great artist. Picasso visited Ernst in Seillans and it is said that they sat for long hours on the terrace outside the Hotel des Deux Rocs, just yards from La Dolcé Vita, swapping ideas and, no doubt, discussing the work of their contemporaries.
A few hundred metres from Seillans town, is a contemporary gallery called The Orange Tree. Run by Tessa and Nigel Cox, originally from Dorset, the gallery exhibits not just Tessa’s original works, but contemporary works from fine, local artists. Amongst these is a sculptor still living in the village who worked with Ernst.
The Orange Tree features a beautiful sculpture garden. The works provide a striking and dramatic aspect, taking on a very different aura in the Var light.
On the remparts of the mediaeval village of Bargemon, Beddington Fine Art discreetly occupies a beautiful 18th century building. The Anglo-French owners, Guy and Michèle Beddington, now in their 14th year in the South of France, exhibit internationally reputed artists, photographers, sculptors and ceramicists. Also displaying works from their eclectic collections, the voyage to the Gallery is an invitation to discover and reflect…
By the boules pitches - an area where the annual jazz festival is also held - is a Max Ernst bronze. One of the many exquisite public works of art to be found all around Var, whether created by great artists or uncredited artisans. This piece is entitled La Genie de La Bastille.
Ste-Roseline
In the renovated Romanesque Chapelle Ste-Roseline there is a magnificent 4 metre high mosaic, created by Marc Chagall in 1968. Chagall was asked to complete the work by Marguerite Maeght of the Foundation Maeght. The mosaic is stunning in quality and has to be viewed in the light of the chapel for true appreciation.
As one of the best connected collectors and dealers of the time, Marguerite Maeght also asked Jean Bazaine and Raoul Ubac to rework the stained glass windows and Diego Giacometti to make this quirky and exquisite singing desk.
Attached to the Chapelle is a caves selling the region’s best wines and, in its gardens, exhibiting the sculpture of Folon and other artists.
Le Minotaur
Near Mougin and next to Notre-Dame-de-Vie, is the house where Pablo Ruiz Picasso worked and died. Whilst the house is empty and the grounds gated and barred, Le Minotaur is truly one of the greatest hidden gems of the art-world.
The house is empty and only glimpses can be seen when walking around the small estate, but the spirit of Picasso and Jacqueline can still be felt when walking down the tangled, overgrown and sweeping driveway to the house. The driveway which appeared on newsreels across the world in 1973 when Picasso died, with the archetypal footage of Jacqueline and Picasso sweeping down that driveway in his 1927 Hispano-Suiza.
At the Church of Notre-Dame-de-Vie it is possible to stand by the gateway to Le Minotaur which Picasso passed through when re-embracing Catholicicsm in his last years and to drink in an atmosphere that only lovers of art and Picasso will appreciate.